Situated atop the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, this volcanic archipelago of islands has long served as the midway point between Europe and North America. It’s a place so remote that many haven’t even heard of it and certainly not considered it as a holiday destination, but the Azores is fast becoming a popular alternative to crowded beaches and city tours. Once you set foot on this scattering of green islands in the midst of the Atlantic Ocean you’ll think you’ve entered the Lord of the Rings or at the very least New Zealand or Ireland, but this is part of Portugal, the earliest building block of what would once become a vast colonial empire spanning the globe.

Discovered by Portuguese mariners in the early 15th century, the fertile islands were subsequently colonised by settlers from the mainland, who brought the language and culture that continue to link the now autonomous territory to the mother nation. The Portuguese were joined early on by a considerable influx of Flemish settlers, who merged into a local population focused on agriculture, dairy farming, and fisheries, industries which with the exception of whaling continue to be of importance today, along with a rise in tourism. What has saved the Azores from overdevelopment is their isolation and the fact that this is not your typical ‘bucket and spade’ destination.

Mysterious Isles

These emerald isles bathed in the deep blue of the ocean are unlike Tenerife or even Madeira. More akin to Ireland or Galicia, their green pastures dotted with villages and the rocky scrags of volcanic peaks blend a warm climate with gales and mist that add to the sense of mystery surrounding this mid-Atlantic oasis. For much of its 600-year history, the Azores has been isolated, developing localised versions of Portuguese traditions, culture, and cuisine that can vary within the three main clusters within which the nine major islands find themselves.

When the Portuguese first arrived at this beautiful but harsh land there was no-one there. No sign of other humans and even a lack of predators for the sheep and other livestock they set loose on the islands. They were long considered to be the first inhabitants of the islands until archaeologists began to study submerged structures and found that the local mouse population hails not only from Portugal but also from Scandinavia. No Viking burial sites have been found, but historians now believe that they may have colonised the Azores somewhere between the eight and ninth centuries CE – all of which adds to the ‘Lord of the Rings’ allure of this far-flung piece of Europe. Either way, the Portuguese laid claim to this land and before long started to use it as a staging point for emigration to Canada and the USA, where many who carry surnames such as Furtado or Pereira (often changed to Perry) can trace their roots to the Azores. The Americans have returned the favour in the form of a naval and air base presence held since 1943 that contributed greatly to the Allied victory in the Atlantic during WWII and was also of great value during the Cold War.

Getting There

Warmer than Ireland and nowhere near as far as New Zealand, the Azores combine an exotic out-of-the way setting with stunning scenery and Portuguese culture and cuisine where you wouldn’t expect it to be. There are even direct flights from Málaga to this authentic, unspoiled part of the world, and with a connection via Lisbon, touchdown can be achieved within five hours, not much longer than a standard route to Northern Europe. You land at the main airport in Ponta Delgada, capital of the Azores and main city of its largest island, São Miguel, which is also the primary destination of visitors to the islands, though ferries and short regional flights can open up the rest of the archipelago to you.

In fact, due to their isolation, each of the islands has developed traditions of its own, and though they’re all green and beautiful, the various parts of the Azores have a visual appeal of their own too. São Miguel is known as the ‘green island’ but it could also be called the ‘crater island’ as it’s full of them, many filled with lakes. The Sete Cidades phenomenon consists of twin lakes – one blue and one green – that melt into one awe-inspiring spectacle of sea, sky, lakes, green valleys, and jagged mountains. Hikers will believe they have entered paradise, also when they come upon reviving hot springs and discover one of the region’s iconic dishes – a cozido stew prepared very ecologically using the hot steam of the volcanic soil and accompanied by the region’s famous smooth São Jorge cheese and surprisingly good wines grown in this benevolent climate.

Experiences

Those who have tasted it say the flavour is unique – uniquely good! If you want more of that volcanic goodness, visit the Terra Nostra botanical garden and take a dip in a geothermal swimming pool or visit one of Europe’s few tea plantations. When all that country trekking is done, there’s always historic Ponta Delgada to explore. It’s Portugal with a touch of Ireland thrown in. If you have the time to go island hopping, Corvo, the ‘Mountain Island’, is one of the best places in the world to spot whales and dolphins, while the island of Terceira offers all kinds of volcanic experiences, including the chance to walk into a lava tube with stalactites and an underground lake.

You will be similarly bewitched by the breathtaking beauty of Faial, the ‘Flower Island’, with its paradisiacal green valleys, lakes, and successive waterfalls that produce the kind of natural pools you see in ads. Yes, this is an idyllic part of the world, but not one that will attract purely hedonistic beach or resort hotel tourists. The Azores were made for those who love nature, hiking, exploring an authentic place, experiencing its culture, and tasting its cuisine. While you’re here, feast on hearty Portuguese meat or fish dishes complemented by the fruit and vegetables that grow in this fertile soil, explore the peaceful villages, the cobbled streets of pristine historic towns such as Ponta Delgada and Angra do Heroismo, or if you’re visiting towards the end of April, experience the unique sobriety of the Cult of the Holy Spirit celebrations, whose pretty little chapels are dotted across the islands.

The Azores are not a tourist destination, they are an adventure, whether you touch down in an aeroplane, sail halfway across the Atlantic to get here, or hop between its islands. You’ll see nature that will take your breath away, breathe fresh air, eat natural food, and come to enjoy the peaceful, chilled vibe that characterises life far away from the pressure cookers of mainland Europe. In short, it’s the perfect place to reconnect with nature and charge the batteries.