Long before it became the set for Emily in Paris, the city had been shaped by centuries of drama, ambition, and resilience. In my most recent evaluation of the city that never loses its charm, I’ve mixed classic itineraries with a sophisticated traveller’s curated instincts and let the city do the leading. This way, the Paris recommended here is truly a unique one.

Left Bank, Right Bank, Or Both?

The French capital is neatly divided into 20 arrondissements, spiralling out from the centre like a pastry (a pain au map, if you will). If choosing between 20 wasn’t hard enough, Parisians have divvied up the city further, making locals and visitors alike choose between the Left or Right Banks of the River Seine, the North or South, Rive Gauche or the Rive Droite. To be chic and sophisticated on the Right or intellectual and bohemian on the Left? A local must choose, but as a guest you can experiment with both while residing in one.

To understand Paris is to appreciate the layers of history beneath your feet. Architectural masterpieces in Romanesque, Gothic, Neoclassical, Art Nouveau, and Modern styles remind you of this city’s centuries-old role as Europe’s cultural heartbeat. From the Roman baths still visible near Cluny, Bourbon and Bonaparte glamourisation, and Haussmann’s wide boulevards, the story of Paris is told through its stone and skyline.

The 1st to 8th arrondissements are where you’ll find most of the museums, landmarks, and luxury boutiques. All worthy contenders for your time. But if you wander a little further – say to the 11th, 13th or 18th – you’ll discover the locals’ Paris: bistros without influencers, wine bars without velvet ropes, and bakeries with lines that mean something. The 11th arrondissement is particularly exquisite, containing a multitude of restaurants holding Michelin stars and culinary greats like Anthony Bourdain. Septime, Le Pure Café, and Bistrot Paul Bert can all be found huddled together near produce markets, shops, and cafes.

The Historical Heart – Rive Droite

The 1st arrondissement is Paris at its most picture-perfect. Walking along the Seine, you’ll find the Louvre, the Tuileries Garden, and Rue de Rivoli – while always elegant, these locations are consistently busy. For equally well curated collections with fewer crowds, Musée National Picasso-Paris and L’École des Arts Joailliers are notable contenders for your time in Paris. The Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, as well as the Jardin du Luxembourg, are wonderful parks to relax in with a book or watch Parisians in their element. As much as I adore the shops on Rue de Rivoli, especially the perfumeries, the Rue Mouffetard located on the Left Bank is revered for its local shops and markets, making it a more distinctive shopping experience – much more in line with my romanticised Paris.

Across the Seine is the Île de la Cité, a naturally occurring island, and home to La Cathédrale de Notre-Dame, still under careful restoration after the 2019 fire. The island was the original site of the Romans’ settlement, after overtaking the Celts in Paris. The Franks followed the Romans, challenged by the Huns, and as each new invader came to fight for what was already becoming the cultural hub of Europe, Paris was moulded into the resilient city we roam through today.

The Notre-Dame is once again open for regular use and tourism, but it was only a few years ago that the entire world watched the historic beacon of strength burn for an entire night. The early Gothic cathedral has stood tall in the heart of Paris through the French Revolution, Napoleon’s redecorating efforts, the Paris Commune, World War I, and finally Nazi occupation during World War II. Despite significant damage, the Notre-Dame will be completely restored by 2028, remaining a part of the Paris skyline since 1163. Looking beyond its scaffolding above ground, beneath its square lies the Crypte Archéologique, where Roman foundations sit quietly below the modern bustle. If catacombs are daunting or yesterday’s news, these Roman preserves are worth descending to for a hint of ancient gravity.

Sauntering eastbound, you’ll reach the Marais – once marshland, then aristocratic enclave, now boutique heaven. Filled with unique Parisian ateliers, diverse cuisine offerings, and the Place des Vosges, the neighbourhood is ideal for people watching, outfit judging, and fashion inspiration. Renowned artist, poet, and Les Misérables playwright, Victor Hugo lived here, separating from the traditional norm of poets congregating in Montmartre. Did you know that Hugo’s infamous novel, The Hunchback of Notre-Dame actually saved the cathedral from demolition and neglect in the 19th century? A Paris without Notre-Dame wouldn’t be the soulful city we walk through today.

Despite Hugo choosing another home, Montmartre itself is a model neighbourhood. Perfect for boulangerie hopping, visiting the graves of your favourite French existentialists, and living like Picasso or Renoir among steep streets and panoramic views. Everyone flocks to the hill for the steps, the view, and the sense that Amélie might still be waiting tables. But go past the souvenir shops and the uphill selfies, and you’ll find a cluster of streets where locals are a majority in sun-dappled courtyards. This past March I visited the Rue des Saules for the first time, where you can still see a working vineyard – in central Paris!

If the walk to the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre is simply too much of a hike, consider taking in Paris from the Galeries Lafayette Haussmann rooftop terrace where you’ll be able to spot the Eiffel Tower, Palais Garnier, and the Sacré-Cœur. While the views from the Galeries Lafayette are priceless (quite literally) and come with a prerequisite shopping tour, you may opt for a sunset view with a glass of Chablis in hand and hors d’oeuvres at rooftop bar Le Toit de la Tour, the newly renovated bar of La Tour d’Argent (Paris’ oldest restaurant, est. 1582).

Crossing To The Left Bank

Once you’ve covered the touristic classics, it’s time to wander. Cross over to the Rive Gauche via the Pont des Arts, where lovers once chained padlocks to the railings until the city took them down. The bridge simply couldn’t bear the weight of so many French love affairs. Here in the 6th arrondissement, cafes like Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore still whisper of Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, and Honoré de Balzac, though you’re now more likely to spot a fashion editor or beret-wearing tourist than a philosopher or writer.

For the contemporary equivalent of what once was café culture in Paris, take a detour into the narrow lanes of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Independent wood-façade bookstores, dark jazz cellars, and tucked-away chocolatiers await – if you look for it, you’ll find the quaint Musée Eugène Delacroix hidden behind a garden wall. Blink and you’ll miss it.

The Carré Rive Gauche holds an impressive collection of art galleries and antique shops that could inspire or furnish your home. Take back a piece of Paris from famous curators like Galerie J. Kugel, various galleries in the Latin Quarter, or opt for a specialised shopping experience through regularly hosted antique shows hosted in the area. Little shops like stationery store Olivier de Sercey and larger but just as unique options such as Le Bon Marché are wonderful stops for any kind of traveller in the area.

The timeless charms of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés make it a perfect place to stay during your time in Paris. As you potter through the streets, peeking in and out of shops, waiting for tourists to flee back to their tour groups, sit at Le Rostand, where conversations hum with intellect and the clink of wine glasses, or café au laits. For a quieter stay, perhaps more local, Airbnb options and hotels are offered in the 13th and 14th arrondissements for an everyday Paris experience.

Tastes & Tipples

Café culture is not just alive in Paris; it’s thriving with traditional and trendy options. Sure, you’ll pay €8 for a coffee in Saint-Honoré, but it comes with a side of people-watching that rivals any theatre show. While I prefer calmer shopping and monument gazing, I will always opt for a terraced café on a busy street like Café Le Rostand rather than a quiet one for the true experience of viewing the City of Lights in action. Though Hemingway’s and Fitzgerald’s romanticisations of Paris may be unrealistic in our day and age, bars like Bar Nouveau and the ones at Maison Proust will feel just as intellectually charged by their cocktail craftsmen like the Bar Hemingway at the Ritz and Harry’s New York Bar did in their 1920s prime. Maison Proust in particular is a perfumed velvet dream of Belle Époque opulence, ideal for a night where the plan is a singular stop.

And as for where to eat, the better question might be where can’t you eat? As one of the top cities in the world with the highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants, Paris boasts an impressive culinary scene that has been defining and redefining gourmet traditions across the world. Travellers can follow along a Julia Child route of classic French culinary gems or explore the global flavours of Asiatic, Arabic, and modern fusion cuisine, all within a few blocks’ stroll. Whether your tastes are traditional or experimental, your preference in dining casual or luxurious, Paris is the perfect city for a foodie – especially one that expects an extensive wine list to accompany them.

Calling on wine-lovers: every good meal should come with an exceptional list. The city is awash in expertly curated selections, whether you’re at a fine dining institution or a hidden natural wine bar in the Marais.

A meal at Septime is a masterclass in seasonal invention, while Le Clarence and Epicure offer perfectly executed traditional French cuisine that would raise Louis XIV from his grave (or should I say graves? His remains were divided between three cathedrals in Paris). No matter which time of year you visit the city, you can count on your ingredients being locally sourced and exquisitely prepped to fit your seasonal cravings at any highly rated restaurant. If there is ever a time to count on French pretentiousness, it is in the world of gourmet.

Final Word

48 hours? A week? A lifetime? No amount of time will ever feel like enough in Paris. But that’s exactly why we return. Paris isn’t overrated – it’s just misunderstood by those who try to see it all at once. Skip the schedule. Follow your nose, your stomach, your curiosity.

So yes, by all means see the Eiffel Tower. But after that? Put the phone down. Pick a side street. And just walk.

As Audrey Hepburn once said, “Paris is always a good idea.” Especially if you know where to look.