Local entrepreneur Eric Ebbing has joined forces with Swedish Masterchef Björn Frantzén in bringing Brasserie Astoria to Marbella. Frantzén’s eponymous restaurant in Stockholm holds three Michelin Stars as does his Zén eatery in Singapore. He has also started a Nordic culinary revolution in Dubai with FZN, which has just been awarded three Michelin Stars. The latest venture in the heart of Nueva Andalucía brings all his experience to bear, complemented by a hand-picked team who have all shone in numerous previous establishments.

General Manager Robin Eriksson attributes the success of the group of restaurants to the quality of the food, the level of the service, the unique atmosphere, and the curated drinks offering – especially the cocktails. Here the emphasis is on finesse and in delivering everything with aplomb.

The new venue is the result of a complete reformation of premises on famous restaurant strip Avenida del Prado. An extensive terrace with outstanding views supports a myriad of table arrangements, rectangular, round, and square, with a signature seating area in a partially enclosed circular gold metallic framework, special tables for close romantic encounters, and an impressive bar at its end. Here Brasse Wallefelt, Head Barman and mixologist extraordinaire is to be found shaking up cocktails that are guaranteed to get the party going. The interior of the restaurant, meanwhile, features a number of nicely enclosed seating arrangements, the DJ booth, another large bar for colder evenings, and the impressive open kitchen with multiple kitchen staff engaged in a hive of activity.

Fine Fare

Our party of four settled into a nice corner table with plush sofa seating and savoured cool cocktails Berry Noir and Copino Club with a lovely Raspberry Punch and Astoria Lemonade while we perused the menu. Our waitress Jonna Westman was most attentive and very knowledgeable about the food options which aided considerably with our selections. We settled on starters of Stracciatella de Burata with beef tomato, carpaccio tricolour, pistou, kampot pepper, sea salt, and chives; Gambas with roasted garlic oil, chives, togarashi butter, and grilled sourdough bread; a spicy Grilled Octopus with Astoria hot sauce, baby tomato, chorizo oil, and sherry vinegar, and Calamares Fritos with black pepper, lime, spring onion, and galangal aioli. These seemingly standard sounding dishes, accompanied by an amazing garlic bread were, without exception, far superior to expectations; their intense flavours and presentation were exceptional.

Our appetites now thoroughly whetted, we eagerly awaited our chosen main courses and these did not disappoint. We tried each other’s choices of Dry Aged Club Steak; Steamed Cod with buerre blanc, trout roe, smoked salsify, citrus leaf oil, and horseradish vinegar; Caesar Salad with grilled cornfed chicken, pine nuts, bacon, chives, green beans, kale, and Caesar dressing, and Truffle Pizza Le Blanc with black truffle, fontina cheese, feta cheese, Västerbotten cheese, frisée salad, and roasted garlic oil, coming to the conclusion that the attention to detail being employed in the kitchen under Executive Head Chef Erik Rydström has resulted in a winning formula for success.

Patrons will have the daunting task of selecting wines from over 700 references for which Head Sommelier Emilio Campos can supply some much-valued assistance, as well as an enviable list of Champagnes, and there is also a range of beers from Victoria, and soft drinks.

We finished what had been a truly satisfying night with a Chocolate Fondant that was accompanied by a wonderful Tahiti vanilla ice cream (with 16 vanilla sticks per litre of ice cream) and Kentucky bourbon mousse, and a Melon Sorbet with Champagne gel and compressed strawberries.

Brasserie Astoria may have only just opened but there’s nothing surer that it is set to become a stalwart on the Marbella dining scene for the prospective future.