Stretching from just after Algeciras to the natural border with Portugal at the Guadiana River, the Costa de la Luz covers most of coastal Cádiz and Huelva to form the Atlantic continuation of our own Costa del Sol. This also means that while we look out over the mildly warmer waters of the Mediterranean, the cooler deep blue Atlantic Ocean and above all cool sea breezes make the Costa de la Luz that much fresher and bearable at the height of summer.

Humidity levels tend to be lower too, and this stretch of Spain’s littoral is covered in a long succession of coves, lagoons split from the ocean by sand bars, and extensive sandy beaches covered in what seems to be fine light-toned powder that doesn’t stick to your feet. We’ll leave comparisons with the Costa del Sol’s beaches there. Backing these sandy shores are gentle hills covered in pine groves, with clear blue skies above and the sea-green of the Atlantic also allowing views across to Cape Spartel in Morocco if you happen to be in and around Tarifa.

Given what sounds like paradise, you must by now be wondering why it is the Costa del Sol and not the Costa de la Luz that has become such a mecca for tourism and luxury living, but you see, there is one drawback. For much of the year, and the winter months in particular, this beautiful part of the world is tormented by the kind of winds that make unsuspecting pedestrians lose their footing and keep window shutters banging relentlessly. Such conditions are not for the faint-hearted, so while the Costa de la Luz is considered to be paradise for a good part of the year it is avoided by all save the most devoted kitesurfers during those ‘lesser’ months.

The upside of this is the fact that, together with the region’s rugged topography, low population density, and ecosystems protected within national parks, the Costa de la Luz is generally devoid of those large tourist towns that have blighted other ‘costas’ on the Iberian Peninsula. Instead, it offers a great variety of smaller destinations to choose from, each with its own character, charm, setting, and of course key activities. These can range from the hippie chic surfer scene in Tarifa and the remote charm of Bolonia to the low-rise beach resorts of Sancti Petri, the authentic fisherman’s ambience of Zahara de los Atunes, and the Andalusian seaside vibe of Conil de la Frontera.

Beach, Surfers, Nudists And Nature

Yes, there is something for everyone along this coastline, whose first clearly defined destination is also its most famous. Tarifa is little more than an hour’s drive from Marbella, set amid hills topped with pine groves and giant wind turbines, with rolling pastures dotted with rocks and the characteristic brown-toned cattle of the region. These relaxed cows also venture onto the beaches, but not so much in Tarifa, where they’ve been crowded out by keen tourists from across Spain and Europe.

The old town of Tarifa is charming, historic, and densely packed with Andalusian-Moorish history. Its little labyrinth of cobbled streets lined with classic white-washed and stone buildings occasionally pass under arches or the gateway of town walls that still stand after a thousand years. Tarifa has that sleepy feeling of an Andalusian fishing village that you will come across along much of this coast; lively in the mornings, dead calm in the midday summer heat, and pretty vibrant at night, when locals and visitors mix and match in the town’s cafés, restaurants, and bars.

The other Tarifa spreads out westwards along the coast, passing campsites, boutique hotels, and the hippie chic venues that have become synonymous with all things Tarifa. By the time you come to Valdevaqueros, a huge expanse of sandy beach and dunes, you’re in official kite-surfer territory, where aficionados can be anything from a beach bum or professional surfer to a millionaire. Unlike Marbella, it’s hard to tell which is which here, and they like it like that down Tarifa way.

Venture Beyond

Those who venture beyond the more familiar confines of Tarifa will see signs enticing you to veer off the main route to coastal coves and the sandy surroundings of Bolonia, a tiny settlement of disperse houses famous for its seafood restaurants, chiringuitos, and the unforgettable setting of idyllic beaches enriched with Roman ruins. The Romans were here, and before them the Phoenicians, ancestors of the true Lebanese. They came to these shores for a variety of reasons but the most enticing was no doubt the tuna catch, for these waters contain some of the best quality tuna in the world.

The Almadraba technique of fishing tuna introduced by said Phoenicians over two thousand years ago is still practised, though one wonders for how much longer, as in recent years the Japanese experts that buy tuna at auction for top restaurants in Tokyo and elsewhere in their homeland have started teaching locals how to despatch the animals in a more humane and effective way, as well as how to cut and prepare the meat. This new ‘revolution’ has given rise to a budding gourmet scene in and around the famous tuna towns of Zahara (de los Atunes) and Barbate, where restaurants and festivals dedicated to the venerable delicacy have gained international renown and following.

Just inland from here is one of the prettiest little towns in all of Andalucía. Vejer de la Frontera is a classic white village, but one with the ocean in its sights from atop its hill setting. Walking its cobbled streets you occasionally catch the salty sea air wafting in, for this is a ‘mountain’ village close to endless beaches. Until fairly recently, local women wore veils in the Arabic style, a Muslim relic in a Catholic town, a fact that is celebrated in much of the local artwork and souvenirs. Vejer offers stunning views, quaint beauty, and also local gastronomy in which the marbled, almost Wagyu style beef dishes made from the local cattle variety feature prominently.

Real Hippies And ‘Caribbean’ Coves

Venture further yet and you come to what is perhaps the most iconic part of the Costa de la Luz, where tiny resorts such as Caños de Meca not only give off a real hippie vibe but the laid-back setting is also home to excellent cuisine, and great natural beauty with coves and sandy beaches often dedicated to nudism. It is a relaxed, easy-going setting a world removed from Marbella, where Cabo de Trafalgar – scene of the famous naval battle – eventually gives way to a long beach that leads directly to another intrinsically Andalusian coastal fishing and tourist town – Conil de la Frontera.

By the time you reach the city of Cádiz and skirt its bay to other classic port towns such as Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda you’ve left the best-known part of the Costa de la Luz behind. What remains lies beyond the world of marshes, sand dunes, and pine groves that is the national park of Doñana, on the other side of which is a long coastline of endless beaches, shallow lagoons hiding from the ocean behind long sand bars, and a series of small, quaint yet highly appealing coastal villages and resorts.

El Rompido, not too far from the Portuguese border, is one of the most famous of these, where people come to feast on seafood, nature, a relaxed atmosphere, open beaches, and sun under fresh sea breezes – in other words, all the ingredients that make the Costa de la Luz the perfect summer escape destination.