Jerez-born chef Israel Ramos has achieved what few of even the most ambitious of his counterparts have managed to do: obtain a Michelin star in just two years. The chef, who honed his craft at the Escuela de Hostelería de Cádiz, had his eyes set on achievement in the food industry since he was a little boy. Belonging to a family with a history of working in the industry, he was fascinated by the idea of surprising and delighting diners through culinary creativity. His father worked front of the house in a busy restaurant and was aware of the long hours and sacrifice. When young Israel expressed an interest in becoming a chef, his father attempted to dissuade him from the idea. However, the world of food, wine, and artistry continued to beckon him like few other pursuits, and his father eventually recognised his son’s ambition and supported his decision.

After completing his studies, Israel was keen to gain experience alongside some of the best chefs in the country, all with a view to returning to Jerez one day to make his mark. He has worked at veritable icons of the industry, including the Michelin-starred establishments Zortziko and El Cenador de Salvador. “You learn something everywhere you go,” he says, adding, “One of the most fascinating things for me was to graduate from culinary school and immediately be offered a job as head of the meat section at Zortziko. I learned how to clean and handle a wide array of produce.” The chef also worked at the now-closed, two-Michelin-star La Alquería, the gastronomic gem of the Hotel Hacienda Benazuza. He additionally completed various internships at El Bulli and co-directed Tragabuches restaurant in Ronda. Working with Ferran Adrià, he says, taught him “discipline, dedication, and authentic love for fine cuisine. This is a beautiful profession, but also one that requires many hours of sacrifice.”

The chef returned to Jerez in 2005 and led the kitchens at La Condesa restaurant, earning recognition in the Michelin Guide and in Lo Mejor de la Gastronomía by Rafael García Santos. In 2010, he opened his first project, Albalá, an informal eatery with fresh cuisine where the Andalusian tradition of tapas and shared dining reigns supreme. The restaurant has been mentioned in the Michelin Guide since 2012.

Mantuá is his most personal project, born from the dream of that young student who fantasised about having his own fine dining restaurant. This is named after a grape variety grown in Jerez in the 18th century in zones like Jerez, Chiclana, and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. It is said to lend wine a special quality that Israel aims to share through his creations. His goal is to share “the emotion of the flavour of memory,” and he prioritises cooking delicious food over presentation. Nevertheless, his dishes are certainly pleasing to the eye.

Mantúa received its first Michelin star in 2020 and its second Repsol Sun in 2023. The restaurant serves two tasting menus, both of which can be paired with wine: Arcilla (‘Clay’), with 16 dishes, and Caliza (‘Limestone’), featuring 20 dishes. Although the menus change seasonally, they contain numerous homages to traditional cuisine, with dishes like the zanahorias aliñadas, – a veritable classic in Jerezian ventas. At Mantúa, this dish is served in spherical form, adding sophistication and novelty to the well-loved classic. Another option that is well-loved among diners is the caldito de pescailla en blanco, featuring delicate layers of fish in a flavourful stock with a touch of amontillado. Many dishes contain two staples in Jerezian cuisine: vinegar or wine. Mantúa has almost 200 wines from Jerez and a host of high-quality vinegars.

For the summer, Israel and his team are working on dishes that were once popular in times of war, when hungry bellies made for unprecedented creativity in the kitchen. The first preparation he mentions is ajo de viña, a delicious hot dish comprising bread, tomato, peppers, and garlic cooked in a lebrilla (earthenware bowl). He is also bringing new life to aguaillo – a vegetable-based dish dreamed up by Jerez’s many cortijo workers, who sipped on this flavourful soup to give them energy throughout the day. One can only imagine the many new creations the chef and his team will create, inspired by the past to create modern, innovative dishes that appeal above all to the sense of flavour.