If you have already been to Döss then you know that when it launched almost a year ago, it seriously upped the standard of fine dining and creative Japanese cuisine in Marbella.
Boasting a menu carefully crafted by a finalist at the World Sushi Championships – Carlos Navarro, it was a big change for Bruno and Giuseppina Filippone, who made their name in their family restaurant chain, Da Bruno. Much has changed since Döss’ early days, and one of the most important incorporations to the team has been that of Leo Dolci – an Argentinean chef who began his experience at Döss as a pastry chef and is now Executive Chef, ready to take the restaurant to new heights.
Leo commenced his studies at the prestigious Instituto Argentino de Gastronomía, obtaining qualifications in the culinary arts, as well as the creation of pastry, bread, and chocolate. Soon, he would form part of the teaching line-up. He says, “I was excited to see the teaching line-up share so much knowledge. Some of the top chefs there included Fabián Mahr, Claudio Olijavetzky, Juan Pablo Lugo, Georgie Sander, Andrés Blasco, Guillermo Taboada, Fernando Lococo, and Daniel Tolosa.”
Honing his craft under some of the finest chefs in the business was an ideal way to start. He hadn’t even finished his studies when he was offered the chance to form part of such a prestigious group. Leo says, “All I had in mind was to reach the highest level possible, to teach, and to share all the knowledge I had obtained from such greats. It wasn’t easy. I’d stay up all night studying. During my holidays, I would travel for 45 or 50 days to Punta del Este (Uruguay), working first as an assistant then the following year as Chef Pâtissier at La Bourgogne, Relais & Châteaux (Jean Paul Bondoux’s famed restaurant). I also worked at the Café des Arts with Chef Jérôme Mathe.”
Leo additionally spent some time at the CETT-Universidad de Barcelona and worked as a ‘stagiaire’ at Celler de Can Roca in 2015 (when this prized establishment was named Best Restaurant of the World). He says, “I was so proud to be part of that team… and even more pleased that while I was staging they allowed me to be Chef de Partie for almost two months.” Another way to learn more about cuisine is through travel, something Leo enjoys doing. “My wife Mariela and I immersed ourselves in a culinary voyage, travelling through Spain, France, and Italy in search of flavours, textures, and colours for our gastronomic world.” Mariela is also trained in the culinary arts.
Another way to learn more about cuisine is through travel, something Leo enjoys doing. “My wife Mariela and I immersed ourselves in a culinary voyage, travelling through Spain, France, and Italy in search of flavours, textures, and colours for our gastronomic world.” Mariela is also trained in the culinary arts.
The couple, keen to explore new horizons, moved to Marbella a little before the launch of Döss. “Our son was born in 2016 and although we had always wanted to discover new worlds, we waited until he was one-and-a-half before making our big move. We were filled with hope and are pleased to now form part of Bruno and Giuseppina’s big family.”
The connection with Döss was quite by chance. “At that time, I was sending my CV to places and I stumbled across Döss. It was still in the final stages of construction and I was taken with the size and scope of the place. I met Bruno soon after and was offered a job as a pastry chef. I was impressed by Bruno’s vision and by his authentic interest in cuisine. Having worked in many prestigious establishments, I was selective when it came to taking up a new post. As soon as I saw Döss, I knew it had so much potential…”
Bruno and Giuseppina both believe in continual training and recently, they sent Leo to the prestigious Bocuse D’Or in Lyon, France. Recently, they offered him the job of Executive Chef, with a view to leading Döss in a new direction. Leo’s vision is crystal clear: “The best thing for a team is to listen to different ideas. Each staff member can have a hidden treasure which, when combined with commitment and a positive outlook, can create a common energy that we need to carry out all the new projects.”
One new change at Döss are the Sunday brunches, which take place from 1pm to 5pm. Here, guests enjoy a wide array of flavours, bearing the team’s personal touch and including special pastries. “We are currently developing two new concepts,” says Leo. “One is a grill and the other, a gourmet pizza section. We are working on evolving the Döss experience.”
Leo is excited about the future but also grateful for the past. “I want to thank the people who made my dream possible, such as (Director of the Martínez branch of his cooking school) Hernán Rodríguez Palacios. He gave me all the support and training required to make me a teacher and thanks to this, I am heading the kitchens of Döss. I also want to thank Ariel Rodríguez Palacios (Director of the Instituto Argentino de Gastronomía) and Osvaldo Gross (General Director of Pastry) for having faith in my ability. Finally, I have to remember the one who trusted me from the very first minute: a Gran Maestro and good friend, Martín Rivadeneira.”
WORDS MARISA CUTILLAS PHOTOGRAPHY KEVIN HORN