Gordon Ramsay once said that, “the success of any great, local restaurant is having it full on a Monday night.” Our most recent visit to Magna Cafe was on a traditionally ‘quiet’ day of the week, yet it was no surprise to see it buzzing with life, with happy diners enjoying a great meal on the sunny terrace overlooking the golf course.
We were here to sample the fare of Edgars Mikelsons – a Latvian chef who displays a blend of technical ability and creativity that seems to proliferate in a land that is producing culinary wizards across the globe.
Magna Cafe’s Spring/Summer menu captures all the colour and bounty of spring in an array of dishes that burst with colour and artistry. If this restaurant passes Ramsay’s test every day of the week, it is for a reason: it is the kind of place where you know that your order – be it catch of the day fish or a juicy steak – is made with the very best produce available. Traditional technique is another strong point here; everything at Maga Cafe – including all sauces – is made from scratch and visually appealing presentations always place the spotlight on the main ingredients.
Innovative flavour combinations play a starring role in Edgar’s dishes. We commenced our meal with a lobster bisque – warm and fragrant thanks to a touch of vanilla bean. Juicy pieces of lobster were served with a dill foam and we each poured an individual serving of the bisque into our designer bowls. Indeed it is worth pausing to mention that every item on the table – from the large crystal wine glasses to the designer crockery and cutlery – add sparks of elegance and style to the experience.
Another ‘to die for’ starter (I could enjoy this treat every day without tiring of it) was the artichoke carpaccio – so tender and delicate, served with tiny pieces of pata negra ham, green apple, and soy. This was a healthy yet flavour-packed choice that even those who aren’t into vegetables will probably go ga-ga over!
We enjoyed two mains, both of which sum up the magic of a dining experience at Magna Cafe. The first was plump, scarlet-hued beetroot ravioli filled with ricotta cheese, served with a sage butter and topped with toasted walnuts. ‘Wow’ is the word for this sweet and cheesy preparation. The second dish pleased us for very different reasons – one of which is tradition. It was a wild sea bass served over black Venere rice in a painstakingly made Champagne and butter sauce – so fresh, earthy, and soul-soothing.
For dessert, we indulged in a sinful (but ‘worth-it’) chocolate-hazelnut log made with Tahiti vanilla crème and a light hazelnut mousse bathed in chocolate and nuts. We shouldn’t forget the wine. Throughout the meal we enjoyed two bottles – a Nekeas 2019 (an outstanding, fruity Chardonnay) and a 2018 La Planta Ribera del Duero. Magna Cafe has a strong wine focus; indeed, the impressive cellar and sizeable tasting table – set up with beautiful crystal and cutlery – is the first thing you see as you traverse the orange tree patio and enter the restaurant through the antique, hand-crafted wooden doors.
If you are into wine, ask about Magna Cafe’s Wine Experiences. There are three different tasting menus which include exquisite dishes (think lobster ravioli, black cod with miso glaze, or lamb chops with a sweet plum and tarragon risotto). You can choose between two different sets of wine – featuring excellent bottles both from Spain and abroad such as the Blanco Castillo Monjardín Barrica Selección Chardonnay (Navarra) and the Tinto Gómez Cruzado Reserva Tempranillo (Rioja).
A meal at Magna Cafe is always a winning choice. Beautiful views, attentive service, flavourful Mediterranean/international dishes, and excellent wines make for an inimitable combination. This restaurant has withstood the test of time but continues to surprise and adapt to changing seasons and demands, making every visit a memorable and highly desired one.
WORDS MARISA CUTILLAS PHOTOGRAPHY KEVIN HORN
C/ Calderon de la Barca s/n, Marbella. Tel: 952 929 578.