Summer is an annual highlight but in these parts it can be long, hot and leave you in need of a little gentle recharging. Fortunately, Andalucía is rich in spots that are made just for this.


Words Michel Cruz, Photography Courtesy of Turismo Andaluz
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Summer is an annual highlight but in these parts it can be long, hot and leave you in need of a little gentle recharging. Fortunately, Andalucía is rich in spots that are made just for this.


Words Michel Cruz, Photography Courtesy of Turismo Andaluz
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The arrival of autumn is a welcome respite from several months of the glorious yet long and hot summer season. Our leafy time of year remains the envy of many, as benevolently warm and sunny as the summers of those in northern climes, yet it occasionally alternates with short spells of rain and moody days, the first signs of a winter that is still some months away. This sets the tone for an escape into the hinterland and the rugged coastlines of Andalucía, a region that offers not only the most iconic summers in Europe but also a treasure trove of year-round experiences and peaceful beauty spots just made for recharging your batteries.

Just as one season sets the focus on sunny beaches so another avoids convergence and the associated crowds of people. Autumn brings with it the need for a bit of solitude, peace, and being surrounded by the regenerative energy of nature. If this is indeed what you seek, Andalucía offers a world of options, from quaint stopovers in old monasteries to glamping and country hotels, but here we’ve selected some of the most popular getaway destinations that come into their own when the temperatures begin to drop a little – inviting you to explore stunning scenery that you may not have associated with southern Spain.

Sierra De Cazorla

Situated in the northeastern part of Andalucía, a little beyond Granada within the province of Jaén, the Sierra de Cazorla is a mountain range that forms part of the greater Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas, which covers a combined area of almost 215,000 hectares, or almost the size of Luxembourg. Within this expanse of valleys, rocky peaks, and wooded hills you will find traditional Andalusian farmland and villages but also mountainous sections that are more reminiscent of the Canadian Rockies than Spain.

It is the largest protected park in Spain and the second largest in Europe, dotted with charming country hotels and mountain resorts that offer spa treatments, fine dining interpretations of rustic fare, and spectacular views of the wooded mountains. Cazorla is a haven for hikers, with routes taking you through forests, rocky crags, green valleys, and past river gorges, beautiful waterfalls, water caves, and panoramic vantage points that offer views across kilometres of terrain. If you’re lucky, you’ll also be able to spot mountain ibex, deer, vultures, various types of eagles, and wild boar. The Sierra de Cazorla is a natural paradise unknown to many on the Costa del Sol, and one of the largest sections of open nature in the country.

Cabo De Gata

Venture a Little further southeast, past the city of Almería, and as you skirt the shoreline you come to a coast with otherworldly scenery. Its rugged dark-toned cliffs seem to pierce the waters of the Mediterranean that also wash sandy coves and beaches. This is not one of Spain’s ‘Costas’ but a truly wild shoreline where you can roam freely either under sunny skies or stormy conditions. Not far away is an extension of resort hotels and beaches that form part of one of the largest nudist areas in Europe, but sticking to the western side you’ll find yourself in a ‘movie set’ scenery of dry, rocky coastline dotted with tiny fishing villages.

The Cabo de Gata is a favourite of movie producers and if you make it there, you’ll know why. This is a region whose coast is so dramatic and rugged that it makes an immediate impact. The villages are small and basic but more welcoming than they look, some featuring authentic little bars and fish restaurants that serve unadulterated simple but deliciously fresh seafood. Popular with campers, surfers, and nature lovers, you’ll struggle to find a wilder, more natural coast, and if open air and raw authenticity is your thing, the Cabo de Gata is just what the doctor ordered.

Grazalema

Closer to home, little more than an hour from Marbella, is the Grazalema, officially and quite surprisingly the wettest village in Spain. This also makes the surroundings beautifully lush and green, yet don’t expect this pretty white mountain village to be eternally shrouded in rain as it somehow manages to stay quite sunny and appealing. Appealing indeed to lovers of nature who enjoy camping, hiking, and swimming in the natural rock pools nearby, as this is one of the most beautiful parts of the large Serranía de Ronda mountain range.

The village itself is also a delight, offering classic white village charm combined with tapas bars and restaurants that offer hearty country dishes in a cosy ambience. In winter you’ll smell the welcoming scent of wood burning in fireplaces and get that warm Christmas feeling, while at other times of the year the hostels and country hotels welcome visitors drawn by the charm of the village and its surroundings, bringing in a mix of food, culture, and nature lovers to a beauty spot that offers everything from mountain biking, mountaineering and hiking to kayaking on the nearby lake of Zahara de la Sierra.

El Rompido

Should you still be drawn by seascapes, sandy beaches, and breezes coming off the sea (in this case the Atlantic Ocean) but long for peace and tranquillity in a beautiful setting, then El Rompido is the battery that will recharge you. Located on the way to the Portuguese border, this pretty little fishing village is also a coastal resort with a very natural feel and beautiful setting where the Río Piedra empties into a shallow lagoon before reaching the ocean. The village and stylish low-rise resorts set between pine trees stand on the inland part of the lagoon, facing a land bar whose sand dunes offer idyllic spots for sunbathing with lots of private space and surrounded by nature.

The village itself is small and quaint, with fishing boats bobbing in the water. At low tide you can wander onto the sandy lagoon and see hundreds of little crabs rush away into holes as the water recedes. The combination of spa hotels, gorgeous scenery, fresh seafood, and a scenic golf course will do much to renew your energy and leave you not just fit to return to everyday life but also wanting to come back for more.

Aracena

If you’re heading past Seville and long for cool, leafy surroundings after a long hot summer, then maybe follow a northerly direction, past the ruins of the Roman town of Italica and towards the region of Extremadura. Soon enough signs for the town of Aracena will appear, urging you to head westwards towards Portugal. Before you reach the border, you’ll find yourself in a beautiful, forested area where huge ancient trees offer cooling shade and the Iberian pigs that this region of Jabugo is famous for rummage between olive and cork groves.

Aracena, the main town in this area, is a classic, charming country town set among hills and green pastures. It is large enough to have an impressive historic quarter and a great choice of restaurants, with good hostels, hotels, and even a Parador set in a former convent. The surroundings are equally enticing, offering a range of options that include walks through the countryside, fine dining in country restaurants and hotels, visits to Jabugo farms and wineries, as well as more active sports in the nearby sierras. There are also holistic and star-gazing retreats, rounding this destination off as one of the classic spots in which to escape the summer heat, relax, be active, and return from nicely revived.

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