There is something about Origen Asador Argentino that is uniquely homey from the word go. Perhaps it is the abundance of wood in the interiors, the friendly smiles and hellos from maître d’, Rodolfo and the team, or the warm red brick walls that spell style and comfort all at once.

Whatever the reason is, it is the perfect spot in which to lay down your hat, order a chilled beer or excellent wine like Argentine Malbec by the glass, and feast your chops on exquisite cuts of meat, prepared the way only the Argentinians know how… over different types of wood, at varying temperatures, each requiring a different cooking time and technique. It is a delicate dance that the team at Orígen (the same owners of Hacienda Patagónica) has honed to perfection.

Make sure you’re hungry when you visit Origen. The portions are hearty and the menu, way too tempting to settle for just one dish. On my recent visit with family friends, we started our meal with a true hit: the Gaucho’s Selection – a large dish containing an assortment of starters, including provolone grilled cheese, spicy sausage, black pudding, empanadas (pasties containing slow-cooked beef and cheese), grilled peppers, and chips – piping hot, crisp on the outside and warm and soft on the inside.

Ordering at Origen can be difficult indeed, primarily because each cut has its own special appeal, and staff informs you when special cuts are available on a particular day. Thus, my friends and I had the pleasure of trying the chuck flap, which bore a powerful flavour and a beautifully juicy texture and which exists in top-grade quality in only one in 10 cows. Of course, Origen sources top breeds of beef for guaranteed quality. Meat is often matured in-house; sometimes for as long as 45 days.

The number of sides and salads is impressive and diners should be forewarned that salads aren’t small – the typical salad can be shared by two to accompany their meat. Each of us also enjoyed ordering different potato sides and veggie dishes. I opted for the creamed spinach (which was super cheesy and creamy) while the rest of my table chose potato dishes – including creamed potatoes (scalloped potatoes with a Parmesan sauce), and wood fire-roast potato topped with a sinful cheese sauce. Once again, portions were generous so we all enjoyed sharing our starters as well as our mains.

We tried several cuts of beef, including a juicy tenderloin, a wonderfully hearty entrecote (with its lovely fatty edging), and a ribeye steak, which for many of us boasted the perfect blend of lean and fat. All the cuts were served with artistically presented sauces and accompaniments, made with ingredients such as cilantro, truffles, and other constituents that brought out the flavour of the meat in only the most subtle of ways. Prominence is always given to meat on the plate, which makes sense at a restaurant that pays homage to a centuries-old Argentine tradition.

We tried an unexpected 10/10 dish: the Josper-cooked honey-mustard chicken, whose tempting sweetness and delightful succulence made it one of the most quickly consumed dishes on our table. Chicken may not be the first choice for someone visiting a steakhouse of this calibre, but take my advice: don’t visit Origen without trying this one.

Desserts are up to scratch with the rest of the fare at Origen. We made room for homemade ice-cream with a lovely warm red fruit sauce. We also tried the house flan, served with traditional dulce de leche, and the dulce de leche crêpes – possibly the restaurant’s best loved dessert. A couple of coffees later and we felt on top of the world. Origen is an establishment that consistently delivers top quality food and service; one in which magnificent meat, wine, and service combine to a level that is fast turning Marbella into a true haven for traditional dining.

WORDS MARISA CUTILLAS  PHOTOGRAPHY KEVIN HORN

C/ Gregorio Marañón s/n, Esquina Camilo José Cela, Marbella. Tel: 951 352 164.

www.origenasador.com